How we do things.
Training:
Training begins the day a goat is born. For a good
packing goat, hand raising it a must (This means one-to-one feedings from
birth, not "bucket or dam" feeding). This bonds the goat to humans; makes
you a vital part of it's herd. The most important training rule to remember
is "love and respect your goat". Cute cuddly "kids" grow to be big strong
"goats." By nature goats butt and ram each other and will do it to
humans unless this is trained out of them at a very young age. The
best way is by the "No horns, no heads" rule. As the owner, and alpha of
the herd, humans must never "invite" a challenge. This means you do not
grab the goat by it's horns and tussle. And part two; if the goat lowers
it head to butt, gently push it's head away on the side of it's face, with
a sharp no. The first year this will be the most used training technique.
But as a fully grown adult packer, that same goat is safe to turn your
back on, will follow, anywhere, and wants very much to make you, the human
dominant(s) happy.
Collar and leash training for your goat must also
start very early. They love to walk, they love to be with their heard.
They do not like to be on a leash, but many areas require leads on all
pack animals, so start them, even before they are weaned. They will do
very well on a leash if taught early. Never yell or hit the goat, this
makes them resentful. But like a well trained dog, coax and reward the
goat.
That first year is the best time to get them
to cross water. Most goats don't do this naturally and will find many ingenious
ways NOT to get wet. But if fording a river is necessary on a hike, your
goat must be able to do it. We actually walk stream beds, so the goats
at some point must go through water to follow. Often they will wait until
we are out of sight before "plunging in" but all will come before being
left behind.
King of the Hill -- for now. |
Crystal is using the sure footed Chocolate as leverage to reach the
top of the mountain. |
| Climbing Toys: We ask your goats to
go everywhere with us. And we will traverse anything short of a cliff.
This type of toy, helps them with their climbing, surefootedness, jumping,
and balance. So so we built a "mountain" for them, and added hopping "rocks"
of wood. (We used scrap wood and old tree trunks for building material.
The logs wobble a little, intentionally) One goat is always on the mountain,
usually two. And "King of the Hill" is a daily game in our pasture. But
when the two legged kids join in, they always win, as our entire herd would
not dream of butting them, and if you can't use your head, you can't win. |
Enjoying the Sun |
You want your goat to be a working animal. But, most
people can't just strap on a pack and go all day long and not hurt afterwards,
neither can a packgoat. We walk the boys regularly. Two or three times
a week. For as long as time allows. Usually 3-6 miles of trail per trip.
This keeps them (and us) in better shape. We push for longer distances
as we get closer to long trips. And we start adding weight slowly each
spring as we can't maintain the training during the winter with the snow
we get locally. Milk jugs with water are easy to use to "add" weight, and
our boys are used to full, heavy packs long before we go overnight or longer.
But these "training" hikes do one other very important
thing for the boys. It keeps them on forage. We do no encourage eating
on the trail, so we stop every now and again to allow them to browse. Although
we will let them eat a bite here and there as they walk, if they stop they
are "prompted" to move along with a squirt from a water battle. This wild
forage keeps their systems trained to the food most readily available in
the High Uintas where our long trips take place. The boys can forage on
these trips and do not get sick from "sudden change of diet," a very real
hazard for "backyard" livestock like our goats.
Once you get to know goats, they can be a very companionable
and efficient pack animals, as well as a very real source of amusement
and friendship. But by their very nature they are mischievous and curious.
Sometimes they will do something that just can not be allowed to continue.
(Like eating their saddles and panniers, or heaven forbid, your dinner)
As I said, yelling, hitting and loosing your temper will get you
nowhere. Tossing something "near" them can be very effective, especially
if that something is a metal can, half filled with small rocks.
PACK & TRAIL SPECIFIC TRAINING
As a rule, goats don't need lengthy training sessions.
They are generally accepting of the whole training process and not likely
to object to the saddle and other equipment. Goats are already agile, if
raised in a pasture environment and have things like rocks or spools to
jump and climb on.
One area that takes time is Leading and Tying---The
best way to teach a goat to lead is to teach him to tie well. This can
be started when the goat is 3 weeks old by tying him while you working
in the barn. Tie him at about 12" with a wide flat nylon or leather collar.
This can be done daily for about 3 weeks. A goat who is tied this way and
learns to give to the pressure will lead well forever. Don't leave the
goat unattended when tied, ever. They need to be rescued occasionally.
Also, don't tie him where he can jump onto something and off the other
side. This will hang your goat!
If you start training with an older goat, you can
use a goat halter to teach him to lead. Leading by the head is recommended
for goats who don't give well to pressure, and makes them much easier to
handle.
The basics for leading are just like dog obedience,
except I teach mine to follow me, rather than lead in the heeling position.
Most packers (including us) let the goats go on the trail with no lead,
but it's necessary sometimes to be able to lead them; around lots of people,
on dangerous roads, and some areas do require leads on pack stock. Once
your animal leads well, you can pack string them with ease.
THE PACK
In their 4th year they are ready to pack. And if
taught manners this is easy. Let them smell and see the saddle first. While
talking normally to them, set it on their shoulder and slide to place on
back. They may small it again. Some may move a little. The may ignore it.
Fit the saddle to the goat and label for that goat. (repeat sizing as needed
as goat ages. Each goat should have their own saddle) Strap down and walk
them a bit with just the saddle. Do this several times during the day.
Next day, let them wear it all day. (watched by
you as accidents can happen. A goat should never wear a saddle unattended).
The third day introduce the panniers. This may be
"exciting". This is usually where you may spook the goat. The noise of
rubbing or the shifting of load is usually the issue, not he pannier itself.
Remember to allow smelling of the panniers before adding them to the saddle.
They might ignore them in the pasture and freak on their first walk in
the brush. There first walk with panniers should always by on a leash.
Always remain calm yourself and when the "excitement" is over lavish approval
on the goat. Remember to lavish approval on the ones that do not freak
out too. Continue the walk even after the goat has settled down. Gradually
add weight -5 to 10 pounds each outing- to the pack on each successive
walk up to the maximum of 1/3 their total weight. 1/4 ratio is better for
actual hiking conditions. Once trained your goat is ready to be your
hiking companion for years to come.
You should never just saddle up a goat. Like humans
they should be in good physical shape before attempting strenuous exercise.
Packing is an exercise for goats.
Odds and Ends
We have two goat watering systems. One is
off the local irrigation system and automatic from Mid March through the
end of September. The other is lug and carry (Two 5 gal. buckets)
from the house in the winter. We have an electric water heater in the water
so we on longer have to break the ice. (water temp about 35-40 degrees)
Without the heater; we walk out several times a day because we have
to break the ice for them. (Right > ) |
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We have home made feeders to accommodate the fact that we have horned
goats. We have 4 feeders for 18 goats.
Then there was Charlie; he ate IN the feeder.
(< Left Picture taken after dark) |
A Question of Trail Etiquette Who has the right-of-way?
It is our experience that very few back country
users know the answer to this question. Thankfully our boys are familiar
with both backpacks on people and horses, so are total unconcerned beyond
there natural wilderness alertness. Most hikers hate the idea, but as the
most mobile they should get off the trail on the low side. In a goats vs
horses the same rule applies. We move to the low side as the goats are
much more agile than the horses. (Horses are much easier for the rider
to control on the high side of the trail. Move at approximately 30 feet
off the trail for horses). We have decided that horses think people with
packs are bears, and llamas/goats with backs are devils from their darkest
nightmares. With horses it is a excellent idea to keep talking to the riders
as they pass, as this helps the horse with their tiny little brains identify
you as a person rather then a scary unknown.
There are times when passing is not an option.
(The east fork of the Duchesne comes to mind. A 1/4 mile, six inch ribbon
of trail across a 70 degree slope of loose dirt.) In these situations the
most mobile should back up to a safe place to pass.
Pack strings of any sort should be given consideration
over any kind of person with a lone creature. But we seldom argue with
a spooky horse and just give way. And our boys watch the horse dance fitfully
past with silly grins on their faces.